Imre Györgykovács

A partisan among the artisans 

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The same way

The good thing about Imre’s wines is that ever since 1992, they’ve come from the same nicely looked after micro-parcels and are made at the same place, in the same way, and more or less in the same immaculately clean, old barrels. The Hárslevelű barrel, for example, was made in 1961 from the new vaults of an old 100-hectolitre barrel by a cooper who gave it to Imre’s father in Devecser. Manual labour is a part of everything: the cellar’s size is just right for what two people with four hands can deal with, move around and wash. Two thick notebooks lie on the table with the notes of the 2011 and 2012 vintage and harvest: a detailed account of every single event, since according to Imre “enthusiasm is crucial, only it’s not enough”. Lunch is kohlrabi soup from the vegetables grown among the grapes. That is except for the kohlrabi, since Imre threw them all away since he felt they were too small in 2013.

 

In Imre’s words

“Everything always ferments spontaneously. Nice grapes – we are trying to have the nicest on the hill – and always great cleanliness. That’s the core of it. In the meantime everyone leaves me alone, except for Gyöngyi, even though I keep telling them that they can sit down at the time of the pressing. But they can’t keep up with the speed. And I’m not easy to deal with either. At the time of the harvest I sleep on the ground floor and pull on the press every hour. One must pay attention, do it quickly in order to avoid the oxidation of the fruit, the must, the wine. The feedback we receive is so good that we’d rather do it ourselves, well. If I don’t pay enough attention, what can I say afterwards if it’s not what it should be like. You wouldn’t come again, either. There are no cosmetics here. Look at this girl, she looks the same in the morning when she wakes up. My wines are the same. My only goal is that this small amount of wine should be drunk by a few good people. I’ve been bottling my wines for 21 years. I did the first vintage by hand using a lopó (a pumpkin-shape wine sampling device used for taking the wine out of the barrel), which I took to the wine festival where we first met. Well, cheers! I shouldn’t speak that much, I should listen to those who have an opinion who have been to many places and know a lot.”

 

 

Pre-order of the 2012 Györgykovács wines - from 10th March

 

Over the course of many years, love turned into a good marriage – fortunately Imre’s natural wines are still pristinely pure and popular. As for ourselves, the recipe is the same for the third year running: following the pre-ordering of the wine, we put the freshly bottled vintage into our dark and cool warehouse. And that one year always does wonders for Somló, Tokaj and Badacsony whites, even though Imre’s 2012 wines are already perfectly bottled aged. It was the Olaszrizling and the Furmint that made the greatest impression on our team, while the next day Imre named those two as the most ready wines in the 2012 series.