“Let’s concentrate on less, but let’s do that well”

The winemaking philosophy of Lower Austria

2015 is the vintage of the decade. While most of the more serious 2015 wines haven’t even hit the market yet, winemakers and experts unanimously agree that it is the most outstanding vintage of the last 10 years. What surprised us during our tastings was that even though it was an especially hot summer, the wines are remarkably fresh with intense aromas, and we haven’t experienced any signs that would imply overripeness or botrytis. The wines are dense without being heavy, fruity without forcing the spiciness and minerality into the background. As is typical with stellar vintages, all this is true with the entry-level wines.


Austrian Grüner Veltliner is a worldwide success. The wine sector has reprogrammed itself in the last decade and a half, and by the millennium “GrüVe” had already conquered the best restaurants of New York, London and Hong Kong. Those who found Riesling too invigorating, Chardonnay too creamy and Pinot Grigio too commercial were able to find their favourite variety. Grüner Veltliner is appealing and supple, and it also has good drinkability without being common. Its typical characteristic is white pepper – beside that, it’s often mineral with pollen and tobacco also appearing. Its fruits are yellow apple, mango and tangerine. Regarding its structure, it falls closer to Olaszrizling than to Riesling and the nature of its acidity is halfway between the two. The secret of the success of Wagram and Kamptal, as well as their neighbours, is that Grüner Veltliner requires no ‘instructions for use’: even someone who encounters the variety for the first time will find pleasure in it. 

The green country

Grüner Veltliner is in the absolute majority in almost all of the protected designation of origin wine regions of Lower Austria. The ancient loess soil that can be found in the valleys of the River Danube’s tributaries is ideal for the grape, while the significant diurnal temperature range also benefits it. During the daytime, the warm air that rises off the Pannonian plain is swept away by the cold coming in from the Bohemian forests at night. This is a celestial gift for maintaining the freshness and also for the formation of the aroma richness – just like the richness of the fauna: kestrels hover above the vines and the vineyards are full of butterflies and insects. In fact, when we arrive at Christoph Edelbauer’s winery, we encounter squirrels chasing one another around the parking lot. 




Laurenz V.

The aim of the Kamptal winery’s founder, Laurenz Maria Moser V. (V stands for the Roman numeral for five) was to prove to the world that Grüner Veltliner belongs to the world’s five major white varieties. Grüner Veltliner became Austrian winemaking’s most significant variety thanks to his work. Indeed, the Mosers have been influential figures in Austrian winemaking, with Dr. Prof. Lenz Moser III. being called the “father of Grüner Veltliner”. Laurenz V. is the sole significant Austrian winery that bases its approach exclusively on Grüner, and in order to enhance the grape’s international popularity, they give all their wines an English name. The wines faithfully and convincingly convey the virtues of the wine region and the variety. The winery’s philosophy originates from Lenz Moser: “Let’s concentrate on less, but let’s do that well. The secret of good Veltliner is to produce perfect grapes and to not ruin this quality in the cellar.”




Christoph Edelbauer

Christoph Edelbauer, who originally studied to be an architect, amazes visitors even before they get to taste a single drop of his wine. The 35-year-old winemaker’s brand-new small winery is an architectural masterpiece in which modernity, practicality and respect for nature are manifested in exemplary harmony. It’s a real pleasure to discover such a talented winemaker at such a young age. 




Bernhard Ott

The most well-known Wagram winemaker. The portfolio is clear-cut, the style is evolved and the quality is guaranteed at every level. The vineyards are mainly cultivated organically and they also use biodynamic preparations. We had two surprises during our visit: the first one was their amazing Riesling; the second was their experimental attitude – the Quevre made in the amphoras they had brought from Georgia is an unforgettable experience and a monumental wine. We hope to have a few bottles available of this.