May+ Selection

We slowed right down again for an afternoon and tasted wines. Among the bottles there were old acquaintances that we don’t mention too often, and we also brought in a few new names. That’s how we selected the wines for our May+ case, which includes our selection’s new winery, Domaine Lavantureux from Chablis, the new vintage of Gellavilla’s Oroszy and Budaprés’ first traditional method cider. We’re introducing these three first, and we’re also putting alongside them three such wines that were a great experience to taste again. 

 

 

Domaine Lavantureux Chablis Vauprin 2018 

 

One of our best discoveries in recent times is Domaine Lavantureux, from cool Chablis. Our first order was put together during the big spring frost when torches were set up everywhere in the vineyards to protect the fresh buds. It’s an incredible sight, which of course has a price, but Chablis has always been such a place, and is no country for old men! The Lavantureux family has been bottling its wine under its own name since the 70s, while prior to that their ancestors delivered the wines to Paris in barrels. Their most important terroir is Vauprin, from where they blend several parcels – then contrary to what characterizes the wine region, they also ferment in barrels, along with tanks. That’s why the structure is so balanced, with softer, deeper flavours alongside the taut acidity. The pure limestone soil of course exerts an effect, with the first mouthful feeling like drinking fresh sea water. We’ll write more about the domaine, with more wine, soon.

 

 

Földi Bálint Olaszrizling 2019 Badacsony 

  

“There’s one rule in the cellar: everything is fermented spontaneously,” says Bálint Földi, who visited many places before establishing his own winery. He was a cellar hand in New Zealand, carried out the harvest at Gellavilla, and now most people know him as the winemaker of the Sabar winery, which is his main job. His own wines can only be found in a few outlets – they are highly esteemed, small batch wines from three varieties, made in a mature style. The warmer-character Olaszrizling is a blend of an old Badacsonyörs plot and a younger Szent György-Hill plot. Only two barrels, and all together 600 bottles were made of it.

 

 

Budaprés Méthode Traditionnelle 2018 


We were really looking forward to Budaprés’ first cider that arrived in a sparkling wine bottle and was also made accordingly: fermented in the bottle via the traditional method, in the same way as champagne is. After half a year of tank ageing, then half a year of barrel ageing, the base (apple) wine was put into bottles in the summer of 2019, where it was fermented to 6 bars of pressure, then aged for a year and a half on fine lees. Following disgorging at the end of February, and resting for two months, it could be tasted for the first time: exciting aromas, white flowers, slight reduction, pleasing bubbles and a long aftertaste. All of this purely from apples.

 

 

Gellavilla Oroszy Olaszrizling 2019 Balatonfüred-Csopak 


Pál Oroszy was regional High Court judge of Veszprém in the 1800s. The Balatonszőlős cellar – which according to the keystone was completed in 1799 – must have been an important part of his estate. Ever since the first vintage, Gellavilla wines have been fermented in this old cellar, completely spontaneously, with no intervention, and the winery’s layered, lengthily aged Olaszrizling carries the name of the former landowner. Three harvest dates, mainly from vines planted in 1972 and situated in front of the cellar, with a small percentage fermented with skin contact, pressed mainly from whole bunches, aged in new and used barrels. Good energy on the palate, the deeper flavours of fermentation on the skins, ripe fruit and black tea.

 

 

Homonna Secret Garden Kékfrankos 2018 Balatonfüred-Csopak 


Attila Homonna didn’t even tell us where the hidden vineyard, from which this Kékfrankos was picked, can be found. What we know about it, however, is that it’s an old plantation by Lake Balaton, with basaltic tuff-based rock, cultivated organically, and it yields tiny black bunches. The destemmed grapes were spontaneously fermented in open vats, then it was aged in two used 5-hectolitre barrels. Spices, dried flowers, sweet fruits and ripe flavours. It’s a round wine that’s full of life, which can be drunk in big sips. Altogether 1,300 bottles were made of it.

 

 

Perrin Réserve Cotes du Rhone 2018 


A rarely tasted classic from the windy Rhône Valley, from the lucky 2108 vintage. They managed to catch the cool days for the harvest from the otherwise warm and stony Grand Prébois vineyards. Following sorting and destemming, the three varieties (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) were fermented in tanks, then aged for a year in barrels. Beside the masculine character, delicate details appear in the wine with conifer, garrigue and violet on the nose, deliciously ripe tannins and the right amount of weight on the palate. While opening the bottle, cutting the capsule and pulling the cork out, it feels as if it’s been selected from the top shelf. That’s what an everyday wine is like from Perrin.