Somló - Innovation, tradition and age-worthy wines - Imre Györgykovács

Together with his wife, Gyöngyi, Imre Györgykovács has been making wine from the same 0.8 hectare plot, from the same varieties, with great care and only manual labour for decades. Furthermore, philosophical or technological change is really minimal at their place. Even Gyönygyike’s fantastic soup is cooked up in the same red pot. The fundamentals are constant and only fine tuning is possible. That’s exactly why we can evaluate the vintages and the development of Somló through Imre’s wines. Now, he told us about the 2012 and 2013 vintages and we tasted the 2014 barrel samples with him in the cellar. 

What were the last three vintages like?

In 2012, we were hit by such a drought that the lower leaves of the vines dried out completely, with the leaves in the Taposókút vineyard resembling tobacco leaves. We put the grape-filled containers next to each other instead of on top of one another so that they could cool down quicker. We started the harvest early in the evening every day due to the heat. We woke up at 5 a.m. to do the destemming. At night, to “relax”, we cleaned the press so that we could use it again the next day. 2013 was a cooler year with a later harvest. Bud burst was bad but by the time of flowering things were again in good shape. Unfortunately, some berries started dropping off. The acids were high but still not exaggerated, between 5 and 6 grams. There’s nice Somló character in the wines in 2013. It’s a good vintage! 2014 was hard, it constantly rained. By the end of the year, I learnt how to swear. We had to de-stem the bunches by hand as that was the only way to save the crop. The result is a surprisingly nice, fruity and vibrant wine.

 

Are there young people who are interested in Somló’s future?

There are always new people coming and asking me what they should do. I always tell them, and at the end they realise that there’s no secret, but that you just have to do a lot of work. You have to struggle for everything but in the end there will be the reward. It was a couple of years ago when two people asked me which plots were good. A week later they called me to let me know that we had become neighbours. One of them was József Kreinbacher.

  

 

Pre-order of Györgykovács 2013 wines   

 

The 2013 vintage brought wines of good ageing potential in all wine regions. The acidity remained and the structure is tight. Therefore, Imre’s wines are well worth laying down once again. The Györgykovács wines are available for a month at a discounted price in cases of four and six. We will put them away in our storehouse until next spring.