The Gilvesy Winery on Szent György Hill

The 13 hectare Szent György Hill estate is a real lovechild. After moving back from Canada in 1993, Robert Gilvesy fell in love at first sight with the view from the terrace of the ruined Eszterházi press house. The winery dreamt up way back then has become reality by today, after the listed house and the modern winery were renovated and completed on the picturesque hillside and the first three wines made it into bottle. Robert makes the 40-year-old Riesling of the Tarányidűlő, the 30-year-old sauvignon Blanc of the Mogyórósi vineyard and the Szürkebarát (Pinot Gris) that grows on the north-east slopes of Badacsony in tandem with winemaker Márton Ruppert and grape-grower Imre Tóth. The latter has been looking after the plots since 2009. They grow the grapes in an ecologically sustainable manner on the skirt of the hill, on the Pannonian sand and loess with basalt that was compressed in the ice age. Following several selections and careful pressing, the must rests on its fine lees for a long time before fermenting spontaneously or inoculated with cultured yeast in the cooled tank or cooled wooden barrels. That’s where the fermented wine ages further so that beside its richness it should maintain its fruit and freshness. “I grew up on a Canadian tobacco farm, and following a detour to Paris, Toronto and Budapest, I found my way back to the soil, to nature and that’s where I found a team and together we are trying to make terroir wines”, says Robert about the cellar while standing out on the terrace.