The Oremus Mandolás

The Winery

Oremus was founded in 1993, which is exactly 20 years ago and also the same time Bortársaság came into being. If you count back 190 years from this date, you’ll arrive at the time of the vineyard classification of Szirmay (1803). This date is important since, according to this old and scientific classification, all the holdings of the Oremus winery are ranked under the first class category.

 

The Vineyard

The Oremus Winery has 13 historic vineyards, among which the most well known is probably the Mandulás (strictly with a “u”). The Mandulás (almondy) got its name because, besides grapes, it is only almond trees that feel really at home on the stony, dry, warm site. Maybe it’s proof of fate that there are no almond trees in the Mandulás any more since the almond saplings that were meant to be planted there, at the time of the re-cultivation of the vineyard, ended up in small local gardens. However, there are cool nights and a lot of Furmint. Out of this partnership outstanding dry wine is made and is a part of the estate wine that we know today by the name of Oremus Mandolás (strictly with an “o”).

 

The Wine
Mandolás is not a single vineyard wine, although it is 100% Furmint. The grapes that are harvested from different sites are blended together after fermentation and ageing, keeping the character of the different vineyards in mind.

 

The Winemaking
The first vintage was made in 1997, back then with reductive technology in a light, fresh style. Oak barrel fermentation and ageing was first used in 2000 and it has become the trademark style of the brand. The use of the barrel is an important element of the wine, which mostly means Gönc (136 litre) and Szerednye (220 litre) barrels, although bigger (350 litre) barrels are increasingly used. The type and length of barrel ageing always follows the character of the vintage, although the oak and coopers from the Zemplén remain.

 

The Oremus cellar keeps a certain amount back from every vintage, which is meant for later tasting, and to provide knowledge and experience. This is how we were recently able to taste three different vintages of Mandolás alongside each other and it turned out that they’re all amazing. Luckily, there’s sufficient for us to be able introduce all the three beside one another.


Mandolás Furmint 2011

The youngest Mandolás is a highly distinctive wine from an outstanding vintage in which the circumstances were ideal for making dry wine: a high number of sun hours and less rain created perfectly ripened grapes. Spring flowers on the nose, fresh fruitiness and the delicate oakiness of Zemplén barrels. Salty minerality, behind which there is pronounced fruit in the form of mainly apple and pear. Tight structure, firm acid backbone, long finish with serious potential.


Mandolás Furmint 2006
An aszú-rich year from Tokaj out of which a unique Mandolás was made. Its nice colour shows ripeness; it’s a lot darker than the 2011, and even the 2003. Slightly golden, light amber. Incredibly deep aromas with notes reminiscent of aszú dominating: autumn fruits, medlar, honey, chestnut, bortrytis, ripe pear… The intense aroma experience is followed by a rich palate with long lasting, zesty acids which keep the wine full of life.


Mandolás Furmint 2003

A big white showing outstanding ripeness with exciting dynamism, from one of the best vintages of the 2000s. Similarly to 2011, there was lots of sun and a small amount of rain; in short an opportunity to make a real big “dry wine”. Deep straw yellow colour without a single sign of growing old. Deliciously ripened, mineral nose, the primary notes have been replaced by aroma components coming from bottle ageing: candied sweet fruits, honey, linden tree, peach, ham and mushroom. Nice structure, nobly aged, delicious oakiness, spiciness, tingling acids. Everything has come together; a true classic.