There is always cause for celebration

We spoke to György Lőrincz Jr. in the St. Andrea Wine Bar in the basement of the freshly renovated Eiffel Palace. The subject was Borünnep (Wine Celebration) as there is always cause for celebration. Now, it’s because the 2013 Boldogságos and the 2011 Merengő have arrived along with young György Lőrincz’s own first wine, Kedves (“Kind”). It is only offered in a gourmet case, offered by the two György Lőrinczs under the name Borünnep.

Why the name Borünnep (meaning Wine Celebration)?

We have been using the expression at the winery for a long time. Now a selection has been baptised and given the name. I’m celebrating my first own wine with it, which is a cute bottle of sweet Hárslevelű. After university, I studied winemaking on the job abroad and in Tokaj. When I returned from István Szepsy, I told my father that we should make a sweet wine. First, he looked at me weirdly. I said Hangács and Hárslevelű and eventually he gave in. Even though it was inspired by Tokaj, we made it here in Eger. There wasn’t any botrytis, not even by November 19 when the overripe berries had just started to shrivel in the Hangács. It was bottled with 65 grams per litre of residual sugar and it became a really kind wine – so choosing the name wasn’t difficult at all.

This small bottle of Hárslevelű, the Kedves (lit. Kind) has become the heart of the Wine Celebration – a “fine dining” journey across a whole evening in which the four wines are accompanied by two recipes each by Ádám Barna, chef of St. Andrea Borbár. I hope that it will give as much pleasure to everyone as the care it took to select them.

 

The new Boldogságos?

We hope to build a new tradition with the name of the vineyard and a strong message. My father erected a statue honouring the blessed Queen, the Virgin Mary, on the way to Szólát, on the thin, rhyolite tuff soil vineyard, formerly known as the Pipis. This area was named after her. We have longed to have a Grand Superior Egri Csillag from here, and now this wish has been granted. My father and I blend the Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon and Viognier. This is the first vintage when I was also seriously involved in the winemaking. It has a pure, butter and shortbread nose. Dried meadow flowers, peach, a touch of grapefruit and orange. For me, it evokes those.

 

You had the opportunity to taste the Merengős from 2000 to 2011…

After 2010, 2011 was a blessing from heaven and is when the latest Merengő was born. It’s in full power but I only learnt what a great future lies ahead of it when I tasted my father’s Merengő wines from 2000 to 2011. For me, the greatest experience was the 2006 but it’s also a pleasure to see where the 2002 and 2003 wines are. In this vintage almost half of it is Kékfrankos, which is the most important variety of our wine region. We are still learning what we are capable of together with a sufficient amount of work but there is incredible potential in it, that much is certain by now. I wrote my thesis on the variety: in Piemont I saw how they halved the healthy and beautiful bunches at the right time in order to increase concentration – that’s what we are experimenting with currently. I’m positive our new Merengő’s aromas became so incredibly elegant and rich owing to the Kékfrankos. It has a real Eger character.

 

What is the real Eger character like, Gyuri?

The wines are made in a cooler wine region and on volcanic rhyolite tuff soil, with the exception of [the limestone on] Nagy Eged Hill. For me, Eger character means depth, complex structure, subtle minerality, a long acid backbone and elegance on top of it all. These are the kind of wines one can have an average Tuesday evening celebration with. And since we are talking about wine celebration: on June 26 and 27 in Egerszalók, we are looking forward to seeing everyone next to the cellar to celebrate with us and our wines. But I’ll tell you more about it later.