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Red and white

We first met Philipp Oser many years ago at what was possibly the first wine bar in the country, Vörös és Fehér (lit. Red and White), which today is Klassz. Oser had just started making wine in the Csobánc, in the former villa of the famous Hungarian actress Klári Tolnay, which was turned into a cellar 10 years ago. It was a good start with nice but intolerably high-priced wines, and one or two overly oaked wines. Then there was silence. Years passed until we found a place for the winery – now enhanced by estate manager László Nagy – in our selection again. We dropped by last spring, tasted the wines again and something started slowly


The nice, light, tank-made “Tavasz” wines were the first to come. We showed the fresher, fruitier face of Csobánc with them. Then came the 2012 barrel aged whites. Clean, healthy, with very elegant oak use and a touch fuller in body.



The 2010 and 2007 vintages – of which we received 300 bottles each from the cellar – were the ultimate surprises at our weekly Tuesday tasting. That’s when the revelation came what Villa Tolnay is about. Incredible ageing potential in every wine and the confirmation of what we learnt from Ambrus Bakó, which is: on the hot basalt, the much maligned 2010 vintage was in fact an especially good year. And now for the reds: serious flavours, yet with powerful tannins and a dry finish. Even aged, it’s only for the brave ones who can tolerate tannins. But for them it’s a must try.


Check all the Villa Tolnay wines>>>