Vineyard tour

We’re not entirely sure whether the expression ‘vineyard tour’ actually exists but it sounds so scientific that it’s even appeared as a name of a wine in our portfolio (Dűlőtúra). In fact, it’s all about us enjoying our visits to the wineries we work with. There are many kilometres behind us; travelling by car, in the back of pick-up trucks or clinging onto trailers. Our colleague Gergő Sámson still swears by the yellow buses and his own two feet. In order to get to know a winemaker or a wine region really well, one has to go there frequently – to be able to discover, get to know it, taste and feel. We’re only scratching the surface but we’re trying to learn and when we experience things in wine, in a person, in a meal or in a landscape that we are happy to share with our friends, we gladly do so. Here’s a selection of such things without attempting to be complete, and put together in a highly subjective manner.


Füred-Csopak >>>

Balaton-felvidék >>>

Badacsony >>>

South Balaton >>>

Pannonhalma >>>

Nagy-Somló >>>

Mátraalja >>>

Tokaj >>>

Eger >>>

Szekszárd >>>

Villány >>>




Lili Koncz – Füred


I’ve know the old Gella for a long time and we’re good mates. For many summers, it heroically stood us plodding on its slopes on horseback, which I’ll be forever grateful for since there’s no better place to gaze down on Balaton than from there. It’s worth putting on trainers on cooler summer days and taking on the ‘old man’ by running or walking. The road leading up to it is lined with Figula’s and Béla & Bandi’s neat rows of vines. Coming from Füred, you turn in the direction of Pécsely and then follow the narrow dirt track opening off to the right, around the same point where the bus turns. The right direction will be obvious from there.

The other great destination from Füred is the Belső-tó, the Inner-lake that the locals mostly appreciate in January and February when it’s frozen over. In the summer, overshadowed by the Balaton, the poor thing often falls into oblivion, even though it can be an ideal hiking destination. The lake and its surroundings above the abbey aren’t just exciting for us: beside the enormous and stunningly beautiful grey cattle, an uncountable number of ground-squirrels dash around as far as the eye can see. Coming from Füred, following the main road, the miracle arrives at the right turn after the third bus stop. 


Öreg-Gella: 46.992496, 17.794715

Belső-tó: 46.908220, 17.881652



Gergely Kovács – procurement


There is Fekete-hegy. The alpha and the omega. It protects the grapes from the north, collects the beneficial warmth from the lake with its southern side. Only miraculous things can happen in a place like this – just like when after having a glass of Káli Kövek Rezeda in Gyula Szabó’s garden and gorging on a burger at Frankie’s Food bodega, you climb up to the Csere-kút spring from Köveskál. One simply can’t miss it: when important things still mattered, the locals planted five Lombardy poplar trees above it to mark it. The spring’s water is ice cold and crystal clear, and there are even cups for thirsty travellers. And if you’re still hungry after Gyula’s burger, you can cycle to Vászoly. It’s not only for the cheese but also for visiting the Zománc Bisztórcsak (which was originally a co-op drinks shop) and trying out the pike perch served in red pots in György Jónás’ and Zsolt Szőke’s new cult venue.


Nagy-csere-kút forrás: 46.895974, 17.597208

Zománc Bisztrócska: 46.939475, 17.758940



Marci Balla – Batthyány


Gyulakeszi is not your typical holiday destination but those who go on excursions around the Balaton-felvidék have probably stopped off at the Autós Pihenő (lit. Pit stop) diner once or twice. Turning off Road 77 at Tapolca, on the edge of Gyulakeszi, you can find the small diner at the very start of Kossuth utca. It has been running since 1992 and indeed running quite literally as there are hardly any quiet shifts. The top hit is neither the hake nor the lángos (deep-fried dough) but the marrow on toast, the májashurka sausage made from liver, the Debrecen-style csulok (trotters) and all kinds of variations on these. After the rest, we could embark on the hike: you can reach the stunning looking mesa even from above on a longer road from Gyulakeszi, and with a shorter climb from the road that connects Káptalantóti with Diszel. Whichever road you take, you don’t have to pay with a long struggle for the astonishing view: you might as well say it’s a ‘good-value’ place. By the time we reached the top, the faster team had already attacked the castle’s old chimney from which exuded the aromas of grilling mixed with those of the meadow flowers. A few gliders rested in the metre-long grass, possibly waiting for the last gust of wind before the sun painted the basalt giant orange. And that’s exactly what we were waiting for. But that is something that cannot be described. It’s enough to only witness its existence. 


Autós Pihenő: 46.872120, 17.474686

Csobánci vár: 46.871255, 17.503806


South Balaton

Gábor Kálmán – Pozsonyi út


Légli = wine. And the story would stop there if there wasn’t a Légli ceramics workshop in Boglár, where they make tons of objects out of clay, from human-sized wine amphoras to pancake pans. I once had to wash clay as a child. Yes, it’s an existing activity, or at least it appeared to be in my childhood: we diluted the dried out clay in water, waited until it settled and then filtered the water from the top. It was an important activity, even though it might sound hilarious in writing, but if one grows up among artists then everything has its place. Do you know there is such a thing a ‘goulash portion-bowl’ or a ceramic container for paprika? And it’s also good to know that one can even make soup in a ceramic dish, on the cooker. And it can also be put on an electric hob. And we’ve also heard that some people have even changed their sets of metal pans to ceramic. In fact, we only realised the fact that ceramics is a contemporary occupation at Attila Légli’s. Not far from here, Csisztapuszta and its thermal baths provide an excellent opportunity for relaxation. I vaguely remembered the baths from my childhood, and almost believed I’d just imagined the whole thing since apart from me hardly anyone had heard of it. The baths, less than seven kilometres from Balaton, were discovered in the ‘50s while prospecting for oil, and its 42-degree thermal water has been bubbling away happily ever since. Today’s baths await lovers of warm water with five pools instead of the earlier ‘puddles’.  One has to exit the M7 motorway at Fonyód and continue in the direction of Lengyeltóti, then towards Buzsák-Csisztapuszta. There’s also a place worth stopping off at among the stands in front of the baths. Nusi néni’s is the best place to go if you feel like eating something homemade. The menu depends on what’s in season and what the eternally smiling chef feels like cooking. We won’t be disappointed if we liked what our grandmother used to put on the table. 


Légli: 46.733462, 17.672711

Csisztapuszta: 46.683989, 17.560881




Ádám Wágner – Lánchíd


It’s always a great experience for me to visit Pannonhalma. My favourite is the herb garden, where the monks in the old times cultivated and collected the plants needed for healing with great care. There had been a garden back in 996 beside the former hospice. The monks extract oils from some of the plants and make finished oils from them, and also based on Elek Reisch’s 1734 recipe book, they make plant-based soaps and beauty products. The arboretum is the place for refreshment and relaxation, that’s why we never miss the tea house next to the herb garden where you can taste herbal teas and refreshments made from all sorts of plants. Ravazd is 6-7 minutes by car from the abbey or about an hour on foot, and is where Béla IV took refuge when trying to flee from the Tartars. Legend has it that he, completely parched, stuck his sword into the ground to extract water from it, and the local spring still keeps the memory of the king. The Benedictines bottle the famous Vis Vitalis water from it, and every the drop of the spring has been waiting for 17,000 years underground to see the sun. 


Pannonhalmi Fűszerkert: 47.551660, 17.766253

IV. Béla kút: 47.510894, 17.760388



Zsófi Nika – communication


If it’s Somló, then it’s minerality in the wine – and basalt everywhere. As you walk upwards on the southern side of the hill from the Kreinbacher Winery, on the road bordered by the basalt walls between the neat lines of vines, it’s worth walking as far as the hilltop. Stepping or climbing into the basalt organs, you find yourselves in the Kőkonyha (Stone kitchen) where people used to make fires with the smoke going upwards, just like from the chimney of a real kitchen – hence the name. You can only catch a glimpse of the unique view from out of the narrow gaps and upwards to the open sky which is lined by the basalt organs. 


Kőkonyha: 47.142207, 17.372032


Tarcal, bányató



Kristóf Alkonyi – Hegyvidék


Whoever has been to Tokaj-Hegyalja must have heard about the Tarcal quarry lake or at least have seen a picture of it. It is relatively well-known, yet only a few people visit it during wine trips, because it was slightly difficult to find it until now. How can you find it? The Kikelet Pince and the Blessing Christ statue above their Farkas vineyard have been recently built, from where the view is indescribable in nice weather. Once you reach that spot, you can easily decide which route you like the most. The quarry lake is crystal clear, and it is forbidden to bathe in it, still there are some people who ‘accidentally’ fall into it every summer. If you dare to go a little bit further away from the treasures of Tokaj, it’s worth visiting the villages of Hegyköz: beside Kishuta, Nagyhuta and Vágáshuta, the tiny villages of Széphalom and Füzérkomlós are also picturesque, and with small kids, one of the country’s most beautiful miniature railways – running from Pálháza to the hidden Kőkapu – is not to be missed either.


Bányató: 48.127197, 21.358999



Kovács Gergely – procurement


When heading to the Mátra, everyone thinks about the Kékes or the Oxygen Adrenalin Park for a destination, despite the fact this special volcanic mountain hides numerous treasures. If you head towards the southeast – even the first tiny summit, the Sár Hill, is still a ‘peak’. The Remete cave, the Szent Anna chapel and a lake await visitors at the end of the serpentine road. If your hearts take you out towards the west – Áron Vass-Eysen (several times listed in Kinizsi’s 100 hikers) and Csaba Kovács built a functional and dazzling lookout tower on the Galya Tető. From here, you can only reach the Ágasvár mountain hut, which is known for the best bread and dripping, and if you descend from here towards the Zagyva, you can rest at the Fallóskút, then at the Szentkúti Virgin Mary shrine. On July 3, the Sarlós’ Assumption Festivity sees the fairytale-like forest of Szentkút filled up by lovers, and at a Sunday Gregorian mass, even an atheist’s eyes are filled with tears – that’s how powerful this place is.


Mátraverebélyi Szentkút: 48.000487, 19.760742

Sár-hegy Szent Anna kápolna és tó: 47.795550, 19.965461




Lajos Pászthy – Kossuth tér


As I come from Eger, people often ask me where to eat when in town. First, the Zuzmó always springs to mind: youthful, cool and very delicious. You could eat a ‘normal’ sandwich and burger but the most exciting aspect is that the Zuzmó staff makes an incredible shredded meat sandwich from the smoker hidden behind the terrace, in which they smoke and grill the meat for hours. It’s also easy to find: the terrace is right next to the exit of the castle. After that, you can reach the beehive stones at Nyerges-hegy next to the town and the cave flats which were still occupied by families in the 70s, via a light walk. 


Zuzmó: 47.902220, 20.380914




Gergő Sámson – Pécs


A stone’s throw from Szekszárd, behind the picturesque Szálka lakes, lies Grábóc. The settlement with hardly 200 locals to count today was once a Serbian orthodox centre in Hungary. The monks arrived from Dalmatia in the 16th century, while trying to escape the Turks, and stayed in the monastery until the 1970s. Today, it has been taken over by Serbian nuns: they look after it and show visitors around the Baroque 18th-century monument church. It’s well worth checking out the Serbian church with the cemetery lying next to the monastery and the recently finished lookout tower. And when you are returning to Szekszárd, the best beverage awaits you next to Road 56, in the Kávé Háza, Sándor Tóth’s coffee house in which (without exaggeration) some of the best coffee on earth is served. For this, one requires the professionalism, the base material, the determination and professionalism that Sándor and his team represent. Firstly, the coffee comes from the Italian producer, Carraro. Secondly, they do their own roasting, under the name of Lucky cap. Their coffee pops up in more and more places, beside others, in the best venues in Pécs’s city centre. I would never miss it when I’m in Szekszárd – not to mention the fact, that nine times out of 10, you can always bump into Csabi Sebestyén here. 


Grábóc: 46.287658, 18.610272

A Kávé Háza: 46.329669, 18.699190



Gergő Sámson – Pécs


The 50-hectare Ördögárok vineyard has been regarded among the best in Villány for ages. However, they gave up on it in the second half of the 20th century since it was hard to cultivate the slopes with their 28% gradient. During the 2000s, with the streamlined joined forces of the Villány grape growers, they managed to shift one million cubic metres of soil, and restore the Ördögárok, transforming it from forest cultivation to grape growing. The vineyard is indeed special: an open cauldron towards the south, where the warm air gets stuck, while the cold passes through. (Owing to the high temperature sum, phenolic ripeness is never a problem here). And why is it worth going to the top of the Ördögárok? Because anyone who looks down from here will want to fly among the rows of grapes.


Ördögárok: 45.868490, 18.419147