On tasting Franz Weninger’s Austrian wines, it was Kirchholz that left the deepest impression on us. Compared to the neighbouring Hochacker vineyard, it’s stonier, warmer, with drier soil, and the style of the wine changes accordingly. It has a deeper, spicier, blue-flower nose, vibrant acidity, subtle details and stoniness. Almost 60-year-old vines, spontaneous fermentation for 10 days in wooden and concrete vats, then 18 months of ageing in used oval barrels.