What's a Kékfrankos from Dörgicsé like? We asked the best person when we visited Gyula. In response, he opened a 2023 bottle on the first truly summer afternoon in mid-July, under the walnut tree in Köveskál. It's a Kékfrankos with a lighter feel and is full of fruit. It has that characteristic dustiness typical of the Káli Basin, which keeps it taut and pure. On the palate, there's fresh sour cherry, but more like how grandma set aside a little syrup during making preserve. It's at once nostalgic, fresh and very lovable.

Only 300 bottles were made of it; it's available only while supplies last and there will be no continuation. For those who know and love Káli Basin wines, this is a must-have. If the village wines had a red equivalent, this is what it would look like.