We had already talked about how great classics are born regarding the first vintage of Black T., which was filled into its enigmatic terracotta bottle. A wine which, upon its bottling, Frigyes himself remarked with a smile: "Like an atheist in a church, I never thought I'd ever make a classic orange wine." This year, it has been bottled again – in every respect with the same philosophy as last year’s, but with the unique nuances of the new vintage.

The story of Black T. begins with an old Királyleányka vineyard – from a variety that 20th-century Hungarian grape variety breeding often relegated to a secondary role, as a supplement for blends. The 2024 vintage is tauter and more vibrant in its details than last year's. The tannins are seamless, like fabric. On the nose, alongside black tea, there are notes of dried peach, meadow flowers and subtle herbal nuances. You wouldn't expect such a thing from a 'Leányka', but Black T. is capable of rewriting our perception of the variety, just as a dry Vouvray ensures that Chenin Blanc is no longer just a grape, or as a Catarratto from the slopes of Etna is no longer merely a simple Sicilian white.

The meeting of terroir and technology often overrides our preconceptions about a grape variety – and this is precisely what gives Black T. its meaning.

A few hundred ceramic bottles were made of it, available only while supplies last.