A time machine. In an unusual move, one of János Márkvárt’s wines preceded the supposed next one. We were still working with the 2018 vintage when, standing in the cellar, we agreed that the 2020 would be the next wine. Firstly, because it was a finer, lighter-bodied wine that was already ready, and secondly, because we both felt that the 2019 was an exceptional wine that would only improve with time. "A later-maturing type, but with a bright future ahead of it," Jani reinforced, holding his glass.

The ‘M’, as in Márkvárt, is the cornerstone of János' selection, with the best barrels chosen, as a business card from the winemaker. The grapes come from the Baranya-völgy and Faluhely vineyards, with half of the blend being Kékfrankos, complemented by Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Kadarka. The separately fermented varieties were blended six months after the harvest, followed by a year of ageing in large oak barrels. While Jani's other blend, the ‘Vegyes vörös’ (Mixed red), is the raw, unrefined version, this wine is much more about the fine-tuning of winemaking, selection, finesse, ageing and rounded edges. Our current favourite, this wine has aromas of pure herbal notes, green herbs, mint and a palate that is mature and sophisticated beyond its price category. It reminds us of Mediterranean, gently rustic, old-fashioned Chianti wines. And the fact that Jani gave it time and patiently waited only adds to its appeal.

"I grew up here, I know every ravine, vineyard and meadow. I've been working since I was a child, I go out at dawn, rest at home by noon, and finish in the vineyards in the evening. I'm from Szekszárd, a winemaker, grape grower and farmer." With these few sentences, Márkvárt János Jr. introduced himself to us many years ago when we tasted his first wines. Since then, we’ve visited him regularly in Gyűszű-völgy. We follow his wines, help shape his selection, know his catchphrases and have even seen him expand his Szekszárd loess cellar with a pickaxe, using his own strength.