It’s no surprise that Ruppert’s Villány Portugieser, now in its fourth year, arrives as the first red herald of the new vintage. Whole-bunch (100%) processing, spontaneous fermentation without added sulphur, 10 days on the skins, followed by ageing in cooled tank, handled as gently as possible.

The result is a fresh, juicy, playful wine that’s alive in every movement. Bright purple in colour, with aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, cherry and a touch of pollen. Almost tannin-free, with rounded acidity, a silky texture and a long, vibrant, lively finish.

This year, the label was designed by Dóra Ádám, a contemporary visual artist working in Budapest and Barcelona. Her vibrant paintings, full of pop-cultural references, speak the same language as the wine: the colours, aromas and shapes all draw from the same sense of freedom. A light, abstract, colourful world in which everything is about movement. One of the most exciting Villány wines we’ve tasted recently.