Albariño is the main white variety of Galicia. It grows along the coast, it has small berries, its thick skin is full of flavour and it’s difficult to cultivate. The name of the wine region is Rías Baixas, where instead of rows, stakes and metal wires, it’s a common sight to see the grapes grown on pergolas, with the bunches hanging in partial shade. While in neighbouring Portugal (where the variety is called Alvarinho) lean and citrusy wines are made from it, here on the Spanish side, it’s defined by sweeter fruit, nectarine, grapefruit, apricot and cooling flavours.

Eulogio Pomares is a major figure in the Rías Baixas wine region. His family estate, Zárate, has taken the Albariño variety, which they are the most familiar with, to the highest levels. Their new project is Fento, for which they select grapes from local producers instead of their own, from a total of five hectares. Cultivation is organic, fermentation starts in temperature-controlled tanks, and the wine is one of the loveliest rivals of New World Sauvignons.