Albariño is the white variety of Galicia. It grows along the coast, has small berries with thick skins that are full of flavours and it is difficult to cultivate. The name of the wine region is Rías Baixas. It’s a common sight here that instead of rows, stakes and metal wires, the grapes grow instead on pergolas, on which the bunches hang in semi-shade. While lean and citrusy wines are made from the variety in neighbouring Portugal (where it is called Alvarinho), here on the Spanish side it is defined by sweeter fruits, nectarine, grapefruit, apricot and cooling flavours.

Eulogio Pomares is the principal face of the wine region, and his family estate, Zárate, brought the wines up to the highest level, which were almost exclusively consumed locally until the 90s. They are best at Albariño, and their new project is Fento, for which they select grapes from a total of five hectares from producers in the area, instead of from their own land. Growing is organic, fermentation starts in chilled tanks, and the wine is one of the favourite rivals of New World Sauvignons.

Alongside with the usual September harvest, this time the palate is fuller and more substantial and the residual sugar content is minimal.

Fento: the local name for the common fern, which, next to grapes, is the most common plant in the vineyards.