If we’d like to talk about Rioja, Spain's premier wine region, mentioning Marqués de Murrieta is essential. The largest contiguous estate in Rioja neither buys nor sells grapes. On its 300-hectare, reserve-like property, 85% of the vineyards are cultivated as bush vines, which are a minimum of 50 years old, and predominantly of the Tempranillo variety. The estate's most famous wine is Castillo Ygay, while its most important is the eponymously named Marqués de Murrieta – continuously made since 1852 and still Rioja's foremost ambassador to the world today. It quickly became one of the cornerstones of Bortársaság’s Spanish selection.

We were fortunate enough to taste the 2020 vintage at the winery, where the cathedral-like, monumental barrel-ageing cellar (housing 8,500 barrels) is permeated by this wine's perfume-like fragrance – an intoxicating blend of floral petals and subtle balsamic vinegar aromas. A blend of hand-harvested and hand-selected Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha. After destemming, the grapes undergo tank fermentation with 8-10 days of maceration, followed by the separation of the free-run wine from the pomace using a vertical press. The base wines used for the blend mature for 21 months in American oak barrels, followed by several additional months of ageing after being blended together.

Many associate the wine region, and especially this grape variety, with robust, masculine notes. Instead, here we discover exquisite ripeness, vibrant acidity and deep fruit, all with impeccable purity. Mature aromas and flavours, with plums, cranberries, a symphony of spices and flowers, all underpinned by the estate’s signature sweet-toned balsamic notes. Luscious, round and perfectly balanced. A profound experience, and factoring in its legendary status, astonishingly good value.