The wine, which is named after the owner of the winery, the pioneer Count Vicente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga, is the only one in their selection that includes an international variety, in addition to local varieties. It is made only in the best vintages from the best grapes selected from the 9-hectare Canajas vineyard, which is located at a 465 m altitude in the heart of the Ygay estate and was planted in 1950. Bunches with small, concentrated berries of a maximum of 1 kg per vine yield are harvested from the iron-rich soil. The incoming grapes go through another sorting, then each variety is fermented for 10 days separately in 13,900-litre French oak vats at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in French barrels for 20 months and in concrete vats for 6 months before bottling. It’s the most concentrated red wine of Marqués de Murrieta, from a sensational but meagre vintage. Besides the Tempranillo and Graciano, the 10% Cabernet Sauvignon brings extra body and sophisticated character to the blend. The nose is intense, full of ripe black fruit, blackcurrant and plum aromas, complemented with elegant barrel spices. The palate is extremely elegant, sophisticated, round, thick and silky with the velvety tannins typical of big Rioja wines. “It’s the purest expression of the character of the Canajas parcel,” says Maria Vargas, the technical director of Bodega Marques de Murrieta.

James Suckling: 97 points, Robert Parker: 95 points.