There's always room for improvement: the obscure and legendary Tondonia Blanco has become famous in the wine world for its freshness sustained by oxidative ageing. And with the Gran Reserva version, they tend to surpass their own successes, of course only in the best vintages.

The 2004 vintage was celebrated throughout Rioja, with content winemakers and a long, calm harvest. The bunches were picked by hand, then transferred into the old destemmer from the wooden baskets, the crushed grapes went into the press with a few stalks, and then fermentation started in wooden vats.

The ageing lasted for 10 long years in barrels, and after the unfiltered bottling, the wine spent another 10 years in the bottle. During so many years, other wineries are being built, or change styles and even owners. But not at López de Heredia, which is run by the world's most patient winemakers.

Ageing in its full glory, oxidative notes with ripe apples, walnut liqueur, yeastiness familiar from Champagne. The strength and the freshness oozing from the palate contradicts everything we thought about the ageing of white wines.